About Anatoli Boukreev:
Anatoli Nikolaevich Boukreev was a Russian Kazakh mountaineer who made ascents of 10 of the 14 eight-thousander peaks, i.e., peaks above 8,000 m (26,247 ft), without supplemental oxygen. From 1989 through 1997, he made 18 successful ascents of peaks above 8000 m.
What we can do now is contribute to a clearer understanding of what happened that day on Everest in the hope that the lessons to be learned will reduce the risk for others who, like us, take on the challenge of the mountains.Anatoli Boukreev
Concerned that others were not coming onto the summit and because I had no radio link to those below me, I began to wonder if there were difficulties down the mountain. I made the decision to descend.Anatoli Boukreev
I explained I wanted to descend as quickly as possible to camp IV in order to warm myself and gather a supply of hot drink and oxygen in the event I might need to go back up the mountain to assist descending climbers.Anatoli Boukreev